Updates to Sewn Patterns

After sewing the first 3 blocks, I've found some minor changes that I'd like to make to a couple of the patterns if I sew the blocks again.

TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 5, Pattern Changes

My Block
TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 5

Jane's Block
In War Time - Row 5, Block 5
Photo of Jane's Block - With Blue Lines Added to Outline the Block

Pattern Changes
TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 5 - Changes Marked in Green Circles

If I make this block again, I'm going to try not to have the background melons connected to each other as much, and turn the edges under right up to the joining points. It ended up this way because I was unfamiliar with using the arc tools in EQ, and couldn't figure out how to make the arcs touch each other less where they joined when I made the pattern.

I've since figured it out and fixed the pattern, but not in time for the sewn block. I want to eliminate the purple seams, and the melons will be smaller and more like Jane's.

TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 6, Pattern Changes

My Block
TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 6

Jane's Block
In War Time - Row 5, Block 6
Photo of Jane's Block - With Blue Lines Added to Outline the Block

Pattern Changes
TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 6 - Changes Marked in Green Ovals

On closer inspection, I noticed that the side triangles on Jane's block are only touching in ONE out of FOUR places. When I originally made the pattern I thought maybe they should touch, and it was easier to it design that way, just dividing the space into two equal sections. After staring at it some more, now I think that maybe the original pattern had the triangles NOT touching. So I've adjusted the pattern to reflect this, but again my block was sewn from my first version of the pattern. If I make another block, I'll use my newer pattern with the side triangles NOT touching.

Future Changes to Patterns

It looks like lots of the patterns I made will be changed before I'm done.

When you actually sew the block and then compare it to the original, small differences become more noticeable.

I drew all the center blocks into EQ5 (so that I could use them in the DJ software), but I wasn't all the familiar with the program at the time. Obviously, by the time I got to the 169th pattern, I was getting better at it.

The first patterns I drafted will definitely need to be looked at more closely for things I can fix to make them better (more like the original designs).

TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 6

My third "Trip Around The Rainbow With Jane" block.
TATRWJ - Row 5, Block 6
Completed on Feb. 6, 2010 (22pcs)
TATRWJ - 3 Blocks, 0 Triangles, 0 Corners, 56 Pieces

This block was completely paper-pieced in 6 sections. The left and right sides were 2 sections each (a long section and a corner section), and the center was pieced in 2 sections on the diagonal line. Then the 3 joined sections (left, middle, and right) were joined.

This block went together pretty quickly and easily. My point matching could be better, but it's fine. I've decided I'd rather have blocks than are done, instead of blocks that aren't because they're not perfect. There are so many blocks, that it'll never get done if I get too picky!

Small Blocks
I'm finding that blocks are coming out just a tiny bit too small. I'm going to add an EXTRA 1/4" seam allowance around all the paper-piecing patterns, and then I can trim them to the right size when they're done. I'd like to have a nice full 1/4" seam allowance to join the squares in order to keep the quilt the right size as much as possible.

Pattern Preparation & Piecing Info
I've been printing TWO copies of the pattern onto freezer paper. The FIRST copy is cut into SECTIONS to be used for paper-piecing. I sew by hand, and sew right through the freezer paper. It's not too hard.

The SECOND copy is totally cut up into pieces. Then I iron each pattern piece onto the appropriate fabric with about 3/8" around each piece (more is better). Then I cut them apart.

Now I have a labeled piece of fabric for EVERY PATTERN PIECE for paper-piecing or regular piecing. It saves me lots of time, and makes it easier to just keep sewing with all the pieces pre-cut.

If I'm just regular piecing, I'll trim the seam allowances to 1/4", and then when I sew, I can tell it's right when my seam is right up against the paper on the top and bottom.

For paper-piecing, the paper shows me exactly how I had planned to position the pre-cut piece. Then I peel the paper, double check it covers where it should and sew on the line.

After piecing, I like to give a quick press with one of the "stick" wooden irons. Then I have less distortion when I press with the mini-iron to get it to stick to the pattern to trim for the next section.